How Do You Prune Hydrangeas for Healthier Growth?
Well… that depends on which type it is!
Reasons to prune
To influence their shape either because they are overgrown or leggy.
Change their natural habit.
Influence the direction of its growth
Rejuvenate old wood
Improve their flowering and fruiting
Enhance its air circulation
Produce more foliage
Keep an artificial shape (HEDGES, ESPALIERS, TOPIARIES, COPPICES)
The big prune picture
Understanding what it is you want to achieve is the basis for pruning. This understanding comes from the interaction between your goals and the natural habit of the plants. Both of these will influence your pruning.
Pruning with scant regards to the growth and flowering cycles, or natural habit or shape of plants is inviting failure. You should familiarize yourself with all of the aspects of a plants natural habit before beginning.
After the prune
When you prune, once quiet buds begin to swell and burst into new shoots. The closer to the pruned cut the more buds will swell. The greater the number of stems cut, the greater the number of buds that swell.
The larger the number of leaves lost per stem, the farther down the stem the buds will swell, and in greater numbers.
Multiple sprouts on trunk is an after effect of pruning hard
Flower buds
This is the most crucial issue on pruning Hydrangeas. Plants should be pruned to avoid removing flower buds. If you prune before the bloom cycle begins, you will probably remove flower buds and considerably cut into the quantity of blooms that year.
For some plants it is advisable to prune IMMEDIATELY after blooming. This is because these plants require a longer period of time to produce stems mature enough to bloom.
Hydrangea bud with flower developing inside
Dormant buds
For others, it is best to prune only while they are DORMANT in the Fall or Winter. These plants bloom from new growth in the spring and do not need a long period of stem maturity to form flower buds.
immature floral buds are many times sleeping in the buds !
The act of pruning - Basic pruning elements
1. Prune all dead, damaged and dying branches
2. Prune all crossing and touching branches
3. Prune anything that is not radiating from the center outward
4. Prune the remaining for balance i.e.., make the previous cuts harmoniously blend together or balance.
"Balancing" in pruning means you take in consideration all the previous necessary branches you made and now make aesthetic pruning cuts to keep the overall shape symmetrical.
Do not cover or paint the wound as new studies show these invites insects and disease to settle in the moist microenvironment.
Remember to CLEAN the tool you use for cutting before and after use with bleach or alcohol.
Basic pruning tools
Most commonly used Hydrangeas – and how to prune them.
Hydrangea anomala "petiolaris"
Grows as a climber, not a shrub or tree form. Needs assistance in attaching to a wall or surface the first season.
Prune ONLY immediately after blooming. Remove long shoots back to central leader, 1-2 per season to keep shape.
Climbs using attaching roots that grow from stem
Hydrangea arborescens “Annabelle”
Prune ONLY in Fall, completely down to the ground. Does not form a tree but in fact a low floppy shrub with hollow stems. Will probably need staking.
Anabelle has hollow stems - not a good choice for a windy spot
Hydrangea macrophylla
Usually forms a stout shrub and is rarely grown as a tree or standard. Prune ONLY immediately after blooming. You will have to decide to skip pruning for a season or two if you want to keep the blooms on the plant the entire season until they become dry and papery.
Standard garden Hydrangea - in pink, blue or white
"Endless Summer" is the only exception – it can be pruned of spent flowers in mid-season and will rebloom again that same season. Tends to be a softer stem and more droopy than upright.
H. M. Endless Summer - blue as the sky !
Hydrangea paniculata
These are cone shaped flowers in many shades of white and green. Prune in Fall or very early Spring after buds swell but before buds break. Shrubs can also be pruned back completely to ground level in Fall as it blooms on new growth only.
Tree shape should be pruned back to the same point every year to promote strong lower supporting branches. This plant is a good choice for pollarding or for a coppice.
"Limelight" variety
Blush of pink Hydrangea Pee Gee is always a favorite
Hydrangea quercifolia
These are usually only available as a shrub or bush, rarely in standard or tree form. Prune ONLY immediately after blooming. Does not require a lot of pruning as it is a slow grower.
Oak leaf hydrangea tend to prefer a secluded and somewhat shady spot
Hydrangea serrata
Lace cap hydrangea are usually only available as a shrub or bush, rarely in standard or tree form. Comes in many varieties and colors from pale white to blue and pink. Prune ONLY immediately after blooming. Does not need to be pruned very often as it is a slow grower.
love the lace cap hydrangeas !
Need something pruned ?
Call us - we know how !
PLANT SPECIALISTS
GREENING NEW YORK FOR OVER 53 YEARS !
Article written by our Staff Horticulturist, Peter B Morris, BSc, MSc, MBA
All photographs used with permission @SHUTTERSTOCK